Bostavan DOR Fetească Albă Chardonnay (Moldova): the Moldovan sulphurous has declared war in Eastern Europe

From eastern Moldova comes this white Fetească Albă - Chardonnay. Fetească is an early ripening grape and therefore adapts very well to the Hungary, western Moldavia and the rest of Romania's cold climate. A variety that improves a lot in blends with Chardonnay and Sauvignon. Traditionally, Fetească Albă is worked in off-dry, but its versatility gives interesting results in dry where it shows a floral and citrus bouquet. Everybody knows Chardonnay, it expresses itself well where it wants, the mythical wines come from Chablis and Montrachet, but it also shines in the northeast of Spain or in California (USA).


2017 vintage: Visually we find the typical Chardonnay's lemon yellow color, decorated with a dense tear that hides density. Aromatically it shows low intensity unfortunately. There are ripe citrus and herbal touches that evoke the grasslands of the Codru region in eastern Moldova. Dry entry in mouth. Medium structure development with a good freshness worthy of a Nordic vineyard. There is a slight bitterness along with white stone fruit, yellow flower notes of the already mentioned prairies. A spicy finish on the palate that adds persistence but too SO2 as a negative note. To match with a celeriac-truffle tortellini in Parmesan fondue and herb oil.


I was sincerely disappointed by this reference valued at 75 MDL / $ 4.32. I am so sorry. Moldova is a young vineyard in terms of modern winemaking and needs a period to put itself in the qualitative orbit of other Balkan countries such as Romania or Greece. In that sense, defects are forgiven. In Bostavan wineries they must understand that a great wine begins with a great terroir and with yields that allow it to approach the quality of Western wines. In the winery, sensitivity is also important, from cleaning to the sulfur doses that are applied in each phase of vinification. All stages are important. 

 

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