La Clave by Raúl Pérez 2016 (DO Bierzo): el mejor tinto berciano que he disfrutado nunca


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The Leonese village of Valtuille de Abajo, between Cacabelos and Villafranca del Bierzo, is where the Raúl Pérez Pereira wine-project is based. This man, already in his fifties, is not only a proper name in Bierzo but also a lucky one for being able to make the wine that comes out of it. His project consists in the elaboration of high quality wines with Atlantic profile. And he gets it. Its cuvée called La Clave (The Key) is an ode to 'Mencía' (95%), 'Tinto Fino' and 'Shiraz' grapes cultivated in calcareous-clay Valtuille soils. Later in the winery, a 12 month aging in semi-new oak will bring what it would have to bring in Rioja or Ribera, that is, a little. But this wine can not be compared, because you have to compare comparable things. See why I say it:

A very covered colour in eyes. Border that maintains the youth but beginning an evolution. Numerous tears, that is, there is 'substance'. First nose evokimng a pure, clean and wild matter. A second nose that reveals and confirms that red berry on a lactic, earthy and herbaceous background ... a fucking walk through the Bierzo forests. Entry that is a beautiful fruit torrent. Silky development with generous amplitude and good freshness. A barrel very well understood, why? Because it is not appreciated, because it goes unnoticed, because it leaves its place to fruit. A fruit in its point of maturity, an environment fruit, nature, green scrub ... End in mouth of great persistence, a spice that eclipses 14% vol and tannin. Retro-taste closing the circle when that red berry strawberry manifests itself in its just point of maturity.

Pure seal of the Iberian northwest. I met this wine inside the Gourmet Corner of a well-known Spanish commercial chain whose name refers to a gentleman from the United Kingdom. And its price close to $ 10'18 does not disappoint. I was scared, you know? To find me a heavy wine, that sweet fruit, compoted and very woody ... This wine has reminded me of the red wines of the Loire Valley, more specifically those of Bourgueil, St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil or Chinon. Is it true that they say there is a kinship between the Mencía and the Cabernet Franc? We're talking about the father of Cabernet Sauvignon, you know that, right? Does Mise Bello know? If that's the case, I'm waiting for your comments.

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